Painting: washers v. blenders
So, as the rest of my cast and crew who share my office hours with me at this particular time in this particular place are studying vehemently one thing or another, and as I have forgotten to bring my next African American Satire book to read, here I am. And there you are.
Today's post, or at least this post, is about painting miniatures which will probably be pretty boring for those of you not the slightest bit remotely interested in painting. I promise that when I get home and have some access to my pictures, I will put up some examples.
Harlaquins: 1, 2, 3, 4
I'll start with the useful information. This is the best site on the internet for painting: Dr. Faust's Painting Clinic, and aside from being investigawesome, it also lists some life saving (or at least money saving tips), such as common household glycerine will act as a retardent for acrylic paints thus allowing the paint to remain "wet" for longer. Good to know because Glycerine runs about a $1 a bottle at any drug store, and Cream coat retardent is about $5 a bottle for a smaller ammount. Delta Creamcoat makes the only acrylic retardent that I could find for a comparison. I imagine that GW paints would run twice that if they made a retardent (or decent paints for that matter).
Anyways, the newest thing that I've tried from the painting clinic is the magic wash. Go on the side bar to clinic-to "inks and washes"-to "magic wash." The effect is this--you buy a bottle of Future floor shine stuff and you mix it four
parts water to one part Future and you use that the way you would water with a normal wash and vwalah, magic wash, and this stuff really works. But before I get into my full endorsement of this product I must first explain a necessary component to the process and that is, namely, what is a wash?
Look, miniatures are small. Light does not fall correctly on them, which means that they don't shadow correctly. A miniature that is not highlighted and/or shadowed will look...well, lame. Therefore, the main trick to the art of miniature painting is to learn how to shadow and highlight, and most miniature painters are defined by their reliance on one of these two tactics. I am most certainly a shadow painter, which means, amongst other things, that the miniatures I admire most are painted by highlight painters. They have mastered a skill that I am, quite frankly, not too good at.
Let's define that difference a little further. A highlight painter paints the base color and then blends upward to lighter and lighter colors for parts of the miniature which are clearly less shadowy. The blending here requires that the paint stay wet and then you sort of mix the paint on the miniature. Sort of, anyways. I can give a better description of this later, and I'm sure I will but for this blog that seems sufficient.
Okay, a shadow painter paints the miniature a base color and then washes or stains areas darker to get the effect of shadow. Mind you, this should ultimately mean that the only thing that is left the base color is effectively a highlight, and so there's a whole philosophy for shadow painters on correctly picking a base color. You want the miniature to be red, well then, you're base color is light orange, then you shadow orange-red, red, dark red, reddish brown, and finally black, all in various amounts. This is a simplified version of the process.
The trick here, and the reason that magic wash is magic, is that you create a stain or wash by mixing paint with water (for those of you for whom all this is
new and are interested, put paint on the brush and keep dabbing in your water until the wash looks less like thin paint, and more like dirty water). Well, water doesn't dry "right" for the effect you're trying to achieve with a wash. Let's try it this way, theres a crease in say the inside of a miniature's elbow. Perfect place for a shadow, so you take your dark wash and you apply it to the inside of the elbow. Most of the wash goes into the groove but some of it rises up onto the inside of the forearm and upper arm staining that area as well. You have to fix that or else the shadow in the groove will not stand out. Okay say you've been really careful and/or fixed the previous erroneous stain (and keep in mind fixing a stain isn't easy, by the time you get to the inside of elbows your talking stains of stains of stains--you can't just paint the area the base color anymore), well when water dries it does this one last osmosis trick that really sucks. The stain is a thin line in the inside of the elbow when it is wet, but as it dries it leaches out of the crevice onto areas that you didn't want stained at all. All of my miniatures, for this reason, look better wet than dry. They look the way I want them to look wet. Dry, they are simply a compromised version of my vision.
Okay, so Magic Wash. I don't know how it does it, and I don't care. First of all, it really doesn't stain until it reaches the nooks and crannies and then once there it dries. You have to worry about it staining the wrong areas a lot less than you have to do with simple water washes. Furthermore, and this is probably the best part, there is no osmosis factor. The damn stuff does not leach. It's great.
Now, a wash painter obviously relies on the leeching a little bit. So, you still have the previous options, but if you're trying to shadow the little grooves along a hose on space marine armor then this stuff is for you. I know of no other product on the market that will create this effect. Future floor shine polish stuff costs about $5 a gallon.
Good painting to you all.

